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devil duck

garden pests

Last fall I posted this about our quince trees (which have just come into bloom in the past three days -- yay!)

Update: from the Web research I've done so far, this is probably two separate infections: a primary attack by the Oriental fruit moth (the closely-related codling moth would have gone straight for the seeds, rather than honeycombing the flesh), followed by an opportunistic brown-rot infection.

Oriental fruit moths overwinter, and then go through three or four generations in a summer: the first generation eats leaf shoots, leaving them wilted (which we did see last year), while later generations eat fruit. There are a variety of control mechanisms: parasitic wasps (Glabridorsum, Trichogramma, Macrocentrus); pheromones that disrupt the breeding cycle; a new virus brand-named Madex HP; bacteria-based pesticides Dipel (Bt) and Success (Spinosad); chemical insecticides methoxyfenozide, chlorantraniliprole, and flubendianide. I'm calling local garden stores to see what they've got that makes sense on my scale, for an orchard of two (2) trees.
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For what its worth, they may try to sell you one of the neonicitides like Bayer Advance ...that's the one Rob thinks is responsible for the honeybee colony collapse. W have a jug we bought before we realized what the brand name meant.

We've got similar issues...sorry I didn't read that last when you wrote it in the fall! dormant oil is supposed to be effective w/o too much toxicity. while there are blooms you can't spray. After the petals fall, try malathion for oriental moth, or sevin.
Yes, I want to keep things as non-toxic and specific as possible, e.g. microscopic wasps that only parasitize these particular moths.